Monday, December 12, 2022

Theorias Street 12 in Plaka

2022

At the foot of the Acropolis, Demetrios Lagoyiannis, a tailor from Arfra, Peloponnese (near Kalamata), with his wife Martha (Kokkinaki), found an optimal home in Athens just a short walk from his shop in the garment district.  On Theorias Street, they raised their three children, Georgia (1934), Christos (1936) and Eleni (1938). Christos Lagoyiannis, as a young boy and football fan (aka soccer), memorialized his favorite team by carving the AEK shield (logo) in the marble porch sill. His work of art, or graffiti, circa 1940's still exists today below the Parthenon and other architectural icons rebuilt by order of Pericles during the 'Golden Age' of Athens (460-430 BC).

In the same block of neoclassic houses shadowed by the classic temple was a home fronting on Panos Street, adjacent to Theorias #12, where Demetrios Georgiades (1929), an orphan, lived with his Aunt Katina. Georgia Lagoyiannis and Demetrios Georgiades married in 1959, and soonafter had two sons, Pericles (Peri) and Yiannis. The three generations lived close together, until 1967 when many Theorias Street residents were displaced by eminent domain to redevelop the ‘Plaka’ area as a tourist mecca by the Ministry of Culture. The late 19th century homes with terracotta roofs became souvenir shops, cafes, and museums. Demetris and Georgia relocated to non-descript apartment buildings in dense surrounding neighborhoods, until they both retired and settled outside of Athens, near Elefsina.

Photo: Kanellopoulos Foundation web site

Christos Lagoyiannis took up his father’s profession in Athens, tailoring fine suits for prestigious clients. He and his wife, Vasso (Gkioka), raised their two children, Demetris and Martha, multi-generationally in Aghia Paraskevi with his in-laws next door, and their children/grandchildren above and across the street.  Eleni, the youngest sibling, with her husband Kostas Sophoulis established a home in Aghios Stephanos with their three granddaughters: Evangalia, Martha, and Manuela, that gradually expanded to accommodate four-generations. Demetri and Martha Lagoyiannis (Papou and Yiayia) lived out their days as grandparents and great-grandparents in the Sophoulis home. 

Icon in Museum
In 1976, the Theorias Street homestead opened to the public as the Paul and Alexandra Kanellopoulos Museum to house an extensive private collection. In 2004, the Kanellopoulos Foundation added a new wing. 

Peri, who immigrated to the US, returned often to Athens  from Cincinnati, OH, with his wife and their three children, to visit his parents, brother and sister-in-law, nieces, and cousins. Most trips involved a hike through Plaka where Peri reminisced about his early school years playing soccer on the Acropolis plaza. 

2010 
Each visit they paid tribute to Uncle Chris at the engraved Theorias Street alter and took a compulsory family photo with the museum backdrop. Unfortunately, they never found the building open until their 2022 visit for a special reunion.  Enthusiastically buying tickets to see the interior and the permanent exhibition, they retold the AEK story to the staff, who validated it by checking the stoop outside the gate.  After touring the notable Ancient Greek and Byzantine collections on the first floor, the museum's director offered to take them to the second floor that preserved more of the original house elements, such as ornately painted ceilings watching over the display cases filled with art and artifacts, but currently closed to the public.

Byzantine Exhibit, 2nd Floor
Upon returning to the lobby they were greeted by the Museum’s curator and archeologist, both curios about the residents who occupied the former home. Peri explained where his grandmother's kitchen was located-- near the museum gift shop/bookstore, and recalled the name of their landlord, but their questions would best be answered by Georgia, who could share vivid memories as the oldest child growing up there, including unspeakable scenes that she witnessed during the German occupation. 

In 2010, Demetris Georgiades lost his battle with cancer, as did Christos in 2011. In 2020, Kosto followed his brothers-in-law to eternal rest. The surviving sisters, Georgia, Eleni, and Vasso seldom get back to the old neighborhood, but as it happens, extended family were celebrating Georgia’s granddaughter, Chloe and her fiancĂ© the following day, at the ThissioView across from the Acropolis. After the engagement party, the clan strolled down to the museum.

Painted Ceiling, 2nd Floor
Georgia, in great form at 88, had an audience engrossed in her first-hand accounts of her life in the house during the war. The painted ceilings were as she remembered from childhood.  Evangalia, Martha, and Manuela Sophoulis plan to facilitate virtual visits for their mother who has more family history to share. Stay tuned. 

Demetris, Martha, Demetris, Christos, and Kosta, may you shine like the stars above and watch over the Georgiades, Lagoyiannis, and Sophoulis Families, until we meet again. 

Georgia with her sons, daughter-in-law, sister-in-law,
three granddaughters and other relatives